Rueda - Spain’s most popular white wine: Richard Esling October 27

Think of names of wine from Spain, and most people come up with Rioja, or possibly Albarino, which has gained some popularity in recent years.
Wines from Rueda SUS-201026-130149001Wines from Rueda SUS-201026-130149001
Wines from Rueda SUS-201026-130149001

Other names are less well known to the majority of UK wine drinkers and Rueda is certainly well below the radar. Surprising since the region produces over 67 million litres of wine in an average year, and has become the most popular white wine in Spain. An inexpensive, easy drinking white wine (the vast majority is white, with a little red and rosé), 80 per cent of production is sold on the home market.

Rueda is a wine producing region on a plateau in Castilla y Léon in the north of Spain, about two hours north of Madrid. Due to the cooling effect of the altitude – 2,200 to 2,600 ft above sea level – together with cool breezes from the Atlantic, the area is particularly well suited to producing white wines, accounting for 97 per cent of production, unusual for a country more known for its reds. Although temperatures regularly exceed 40˚C in summer, night temperatures can be 20˚ C lower and winter temperatures plunge well below freezing.

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The most widely planted grape variety is the native Verdejo, grown here for centuries and believed to have been introduced originally by the Moors from North Africa. The other main grape variety is Sauvignon Blanc and a few other varieties are allowed, with chardonnay and viognier added recently to the list.

Rueda is an integral part of what I call the Spanish white wine revolution. Go back 40 years, and most of what you could find was semi-sweet, oxidised, often overly alcoholic and lacking freshness, acidity and flavour. All in all, rather unappealing. Fast forward to today and Spanish whites have changed out of all recognition, those from Rueda being exemplary. Building on this market popularity, a new categorisation has recently been introduced, including a high-quality Gran Vino category.

The newly incarnated Rueda region produces fresh, fruity, unoaked whites, designed for drinking young and deliciously refreshing, with crisp acidity, citrus and tropical fruit notes. A relatively large wine producing region, there are inevitably a great range of producers, with styles ranging from simple, easy drinking tapas bar types, to some which have great elegance and sophistication, capable of accompanying complex food dishes.

In terms of food matching, there are multiple ways for enjoying a glass or two of Rueda, apart from just on its own as an appealing aperitif. First and foremost, it is marvellous with fish and seafood, from sardines to sea bass, mullet to mussels, or crab-claws to clams. But don’t stop there. A Moroccan lamb tagine, a Mexican wrap, a Thai green chicken curry or Bramley apple sausages, all go perfectly. Tangy goat’s cheese, Greek feta or the ever-popular Halloumi cheese from Cyprus, introduced to UK households nationwide by the great and wonderful Delia, all pair superbly with Spanish Rueda.

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Happily, Rueda is widely available for purchase in the UK, both on-line and off. Prices range from £6 per bottle (current offer in Asda) to over £17 per bottle, with the majority in the £9 - £12 range. Try Beronia Rueda Verdejo 2019 from Waitrose (£8.99), Rueda Blanco 2019 Marques de Riscal from Majestic (£8.99 mix six price) and a whole host of others from Morrisons, Laithwaites and many independent merchants.

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